The Restaurant on Oʻahu’s Windward Coast You Need to Know About

When I visit O‘ahu’s North Shore, I take Kamehameha Highway along the Windward Coast so I can marvel at the rugged ridges of the Ko‘olau Mountains, from Kāne‘ohe to Lā‘ie. 

During these short road trips, I look forward to catching glimpses of the quaint neighborhoods and small oceanfront establishments along the way, many of them operated by local families. I see a shuttered shop and speculate about the types of businesses that might have been there before, and always, when I make my way from Kualoa to Ka‘a‘awa and spot the old Crouching Lion restaurant, I can’t resist imagining the place in its heyday. 

In 1952, Reginald Faithful converted his Ka‘a‘awa home into an inn and restaurant, serving up European-inspired cuisine and unobstructed views of Kahana Bay. The restaurant, which is nearly impossible to miss, is at the base of a hill known as Pu‘u Manamana and was named after the rock formation atop the ridge. For decades, it was the only sit-down restaurant for miles. 

Like many intrigued by the grand structure on Kamehameha Highway, Eddie Kim was drawn to The Crouching Lion restaurant. Kim, a former university professor, founded the Asia Pacific International School in Hau‘ula in 2015. For years, he’d pass the restaurant on his way to and from work. And he’d imagine the possibilities. 

Eddie Kim cleverly retrofitted items to revamp the interior of the restaurant.
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

In 2022, Kim put his imagination to work and bought the shuttered restaurant with a business partner. Maintaining the integrity and spirit of the building, Kim lovingly revamped its interior, cleverly retrofitting items he bought at ReUse Hawai‘i, including a bed frame that is now suspended above the bar. He also bought a chandelier, originally worth hundreds of thousands of dollars, for just a few thousand. Kim also needed to construct a new menu, inspired by Hawai‘i and his travels in Asia and beyond. 

“People told me I’d fail,” Kim recalls hearing after he purchased the restaurant. “But I truly believe that if you persevere and have courage, you can do it.” By May 2024, The Crouching Lion had reopened, welcoming diners for the first time in nearly a decade. Kim was now a restaurateur. 

“With its iconic history, it’s too significant to be just a small business venture,” Kim says. “One way or another, so many people’s lives have been touched by The Crouching Lion. I want this place to be a special place to reminisce and bring back familiar feelings.” And he says he’s excited to welcome new diners, too. 

Within a month of the restaurant’s grand reopening, I scored a reservation for a late lunch, which, with the newfound busyness of the place, was a challenge. I went with friends to celebrate a birthday, an engagement and a few career achievements within the group.  

My friends and I step into the restaurant that we’ve all driven by countless times, and we’re immediately captivated. The open-air dining area is part of an expansive lānai with panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean, and the surprisingly modern interior decor exudes warmth.  

Crouching Lion boasts outdoor seating with incredible ocean views.
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

While The Crouching Lion lured us with its intriguing history and unrivaled views, its culinary creations will certainly draw us back.  

“Food will lead people here,” Kim tells me. “The menu is eclectic, creative and if I didn’t love the dish, it wouldn’t be on the menu.” 

Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant’s menu is inspired by the vibrant cuisine unique to Hawai‘i. Leaning heavily into the Islands’ Asian influences, diners can find comforting favorites from temaki and kimbap rolls to kimchi fried rice and mandu (Korean dumplings). You can also try fresh seafood from a raw bar as well as premium meats and local vegetables seared on an outdoor robata grill. 

Many of the dishes are meant to be shared at the restaurant. Hawai‘i is known for plate lunches, but also for being family-centered, Kim says. “When you go into local homes, you share everything. I wanted to create a restaurant for families and the community.” 

While plenty of restaurants in the Islands are putting their own twists on modern Hawai‘i cuisine, The Crouching Lion stands out. 

With an intriguing list of shareable plates, my table orders a variety of dishes to nibble on, including crispy tofu and spicy cucumbers for the vegetarians and brisket tacos and larb for the omnivores. We also order melt-in-your-mouth Kahuku sweet potatoes and Hāmākua mushrooms roasted on the robata grill (robata is a Japanese-style of cooking similar to barbecue). 

The restaurant carefully curated its cocktail menu. Above includes Kualoa’s Ube Brûlée, Crouching Lion Mai Tai, Mokoliʻi Yuzu Express and the Kaʻaʻawa Cherry Bomb.
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Similar attention is paid to Island flavors in Crouching Lion’s cocktails, with splashes of yuzu in the Mokoli‘i Yuzu Express and ube in the Kualoa Ube Brûlée as well as the restaurant’s take on Hawai‘i’s iconic mai tai. 

Lucky for us, Kim is at the restaurant this afternoon and he makes time to check in with his guests. With an infectious excitement and spirit, Kim shares with us his dedication to developing a creative menu to reinvigorate The Crouching Lion. From the robata-grilled dishes to the unique cocktails, the offerings reflect his imaginative take on Island cuisine. 

And while this is Kim’s first restaurant endeavor, you’d never know it: He’s handled the business like an industry veteran, infusing it with bright character, exciting style and a renewed spirit. 

Since the end of its first 60-year run, The Crouching Lion had been little more than an interesting landmark on the scenic road to the North Shore. Now it’s a destination again. 

51-666 Kamehameha Highway, Ka‘a‘awa, thecrouchinglion.com

This story was originally published in our Fall 2024 issue, which you can buy here. Better yet, subscribe and get HAWAIʻI Magazine delivered to right to your mailbox.