Why Hilo Should Be On Your Hawaiʻi Travel Bucket List

The light rain, the cozy gray mornings, the old buildings and shops that haven’t changed in decades. Everything in Hilo is a little slower, a little quieter, a little more relaxed.

The sleepy town on Hawai‘i Island’s east side isn’t on the top of most travel itineraries, with visitors only flying in for the hourlong drive to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park or skipping the area altogether for the sunnier Kona and Kohala coasts.

Honestly, the sleepy town isn’t for everyone. There’s no late-night scene, no sprawling shopping centers, not even a Costco. Instead, what you get is a glimpse into small-town life in Hawai‘i, with lush botanical gardens, family-run farms, historic sites, beloved restaurants and one of the best farmers markets in the state.

This historic town, with fewer than 45,000 residents, has its roots in Hawai‘i’s sugar industry. Today, it’s the Hawai‘i County seat and home to the University of Hawai‘i at Hilo. It’s best known for its proximity to two active volcanoes—Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea—and hosting the prestigious Merrie Monarch Festival. The town has been struck by several deadly tsunamis, one in 1946 that killed 159 people and another in 1960 that claimed 61 lives. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center was established in 1949 to track these destructive waves.

See? Hilo is actually a very interesting place.

So don’t overlook this charming town. There’s more to do than you realize.

Carlsmith Beach Park

Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

While Hilo isn’t known for its beaches, Carlsmith Beach Park is one of the few spots where you can get into fairly calm water and swim or snorkel around. It’s one of the beach parks that dot the southeastern coastline, with plenty of shady areas, covered pavilions, picnic tables and an expansive lawn. Freshwater flows up in several areas, making the lagoons there a bit cooler. Look for honu, Hawaiian green sea turtles. There’s parking and restrooms, and lifeguards on weekends and holidays. 1815 Kalaniana‘ole Ave.

Hilo Farmers Market

Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Located in Downtown Hilo, the Hilo Farmers Market is considered one of the best open markets in Hawai‘i—and it’s open seven days a week. Here, you’ll find vendors selling an assortment of fresh produce and goods, including jams made from local fruits, homemade baked goods, fresh flowers, roasted coffee, crafts and gifts, and lots of grab-and-go foods like mochi doughnuts, shrimp and avocado rolls and green papaya salad. (The biggest markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays, with over 200 vendors.) The majority of Hawaiian papaya are grown on the east side of the island, so be sure to grab one (or two) of these sweet fruits. Corner of Māmo Street and Kamehameha Avenue, (808) 933-1000, hilofarmersmarket.com

Two Ladies Kitchen

Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

The easiest way to find Two Ladies Kitchen? Look for the line on Kīlauea Avenue in Downtown Hilo. Since 1993, this shop has been famous for its handmade mochi, a sweet Japanese glutinous rice cake that comes in a rainbow of colors and stuffed with everything from sweet potato to peanut butter to malted milk balls. Two Ladies’ most popular item, though, is the strawberry mochi—a full-size fresh strawberry wrapped with tsubu-an (a coarse red azuki bean paste) and pillowy-soft mochi. You have to order this in advance. 274 Kīlauea Ave., (808) 961-4766

Moon and Turtle

Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

This low-key restaurant in Hilo has become a foodie destination. Hilo native chef Mark Pomaski serves some of Hawai‘i’s most exciting and delicious dishes, highlighting local ingredients he often gets from the Hilo Farmers Market, along with sustainable options like ta‘ape, an invasive snapper. Check its Instagram (@moonandturtle) to find out what’s on the menu—because it changes often. Reservations strongly recommended. 51 Kīlauea Ave., (808) 961-0599

Popover Bakery & Café

Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

About a five-minute drive from Hilo International Airport is a newish bakery that should be your first stop off the plane. Grab coffee cakes, cinnamon rolls, croissants, cheesecakes, cookies, doughnuts and—of course—popovers here. In recent years it has expanded to offer a variety of sandwiches and flatbreads—we loved the Hāmākua, with pesto, fresh baby spinach, garlic, cheese and ali‘i mushrooms grown on Hawai‘i Island—and an extensive menu of coffees. 399 E. Kawili St., (808) 935-7874, popoverhi.com

Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden

Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Located in Pāpa‘ikou, this 20-acre botanical garden and nature preserve is nestled in a lush, scenic valley that opens to Onomea Bay. Walk on a boardwalk that meanders across streams and through a garden with more than 2,500 tropical and subtropical plants, including notable collections of palms, heliconias and bromeliads. You can even see a waterfall—the three-tiered Onomea Falls—and stunning views of the bay. 27-717 Old Māmalahoa Highway, (808) 964-5233, htbg.com

Rainbow Falls and ‘Akaka Falls

Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Hilo boasts two—yes, two!—popular waterfalls, both of which can be reached without any hiking gear. Waiānuenue, aka Rainbow Falls (above), is located in Wailuku River State Park, a short drive from Downtown Hilo. You can see this 80-foot waterfall from the lookout adjacent to the parking lot, and on sunny mornings, rainbows can be seen in the cascade’s mist, hence the name. (There’s a great view of the falls from nearby O.K. Farms, which offers a tour to its private overlook.) About 14 miles north of Hilo, along the Hāmākua Coast, is another, more impressive waterfall. ‘Akaka Falls, located in ‘Akaka Falls State Park, is the island’s tallest cascade, plunging 442 feet. It’s a short walk to view it and the 100-foot Kahūnā Falls. Both state parks require entry fees for nonresidents.

Puna Chocolate Co.

Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino

Since 2012, Puna Chocolate Co. has planted more than 25,000 cacao trees across 50 acres in Pāhoa, producing chocolate made exclusively from Hawai‘i-grown beans. While its farm, which is open for tours, is in Kona, you can visit Puna Chocolate’s retail shop in Hilo to try one of its cocoa drinks. (The frozen hot chocolate is a must.) The company’s Hilo cacao orchard, which is a private-resident farm, is expected to reopen in 2023. 277 Keawe St., (808) 489-9899, punachocolate.com

This story was originally published in the Fall 2023 issue of HAWAIʻI Magazine. Get your copy here.