The Designs of This Molokaʻi-Based Clothing Line Tell the Ecological Story of the Islands
The three local designers of Kealopiko weave ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i and native plants into their clothing line.
This story is part of our Meet the Makers feature, which was published in our Fall 2023 issue. In Hawai‘i, we always try to support local. Whether we’re buying produce from the nearby farmers markets or shopping at the mom-and-pop boutique down the street, it means a lot for us to give back to our Island economy. So check out some of these Hawai‘i makers who have started their own businesses from scratch and make products that perfectly encapsulate everything we love about the Islands.
Since the founding of their company in 2006, Ane Bakutis, Hina Kneubuhl and Jamie Makasobe—all of Native Hawaiian descent—have sought to reconnect people with the cultural and ecological history and values of Hawai‘i.
Initially conceived from a desire to see native plants on clothing, they quickly realized a larger vision for their company beyond fashion. “One of the reasons for starting Kealopiko was to highlight things that are uniquely Hawaiian,” says Kneubuhl. “Clothing is just a way, a space, a vehicle to tell stories. To tell the stories of our kūpuna [ancestors].”
Garments are hand-dyed in Hawaiʻi.
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
Many of the vibrant tropical plants that adorn aloha wear and are typically associated with Hawai‘i are not actually native. Bakutis and Kneubuhl, both of whom hold degrees in botany and have worked in rare plant management and recovery, wished to reconnect people with native plants and stories through their clothing.
Kealopiko’s design process purposefully incorporates native concepts in addition to plants. Each year the designs they produce align with the Hawaiian seasons of kau (summer) and ho‘oilo (winter). Patterns are chosen around plants and animals that are flowering, fruiting, or reproducing during the corresponding season, and even the color palettes reflect the seasonal environment. Every design is intentional and has a story on their website in both English and ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i.
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“For the last 130 years since the overthrow and ensuing occupation, Hawaiians have not only been dispossessed of ‘āina [land] but also of ‘ike [knowledge] Hawai‘i—of knowledge, of our history, stories, our language, all of those things. So the other strand for us is about reconnecting to that ‘ike through storytelling,” says Kneubuhl who is largely responsible for the cultural research and translating portion of the business.
While Bakutis and Makasobe work on drafts of art and design, Kneubuhl works on research and story. When writing these stories Kneubuhl, who holds a second degree in Hawaiian Studies and Language, draws inspiration from a variety of sources including Hawaiian language newspapers. Each article of clothing has a tag which identifies the Hawaiian word or phrase that corresponds with the artwork. Consumers can then reference Kealopiko’s design library on their website to access the commentary.
Kealopiko is not only interested in conservation of ‘ike and ‘āina, they also believe it is their kuleana (responsibility/privilege) to give back to the community. One way of doing this is by providing meaningful jobs on the islands.
Kneubehl says “we constantly reinvest what we make back into the business. We’ve been trying to grow the capacity to make more stuff here, instead of sending work and jobs overseas to somewhere else we want to nurture our local economy.”
Kealopiko’s design focus always looks to incorporate native concepts in addition to plants.
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
That venture started in 2009 with the opening of their Moloka‘i workshop which was a simple 625-square-foot space attached to Bakutis’s home. After multiple expansions, their current facility on Moloka‘i opened in 2017 and employs six local women managed and mentored personally by Bakutis.
While Kealopiko does outsource a portion of their manufacturing to California, its “All Aloha” line is handmade in its workshop on Moloka‘i. Both locations use high quality fabrics and water based dyes, and all of Kealopiko’s products are free of plastisols in an effort to lessen environmental impact. Part of its dedication to conservation is obvious in their zero waste policy. Not a single scrap or offcut of fabric goes to landfills, rather they are repurposed for things like bag linings, pillow sections and filling stuffed animals.
Kneubuhl explains that “our kūpuna had a way of living with the natural world that we really need to connect to today as people. It’s really about reconnection for us.” From conservation to mo‘olelo (story), Kealopiko is authentically indigenous. Deeply inspired by Hawaiian history and nature, both their designs and business practices seek to expand public knowledge of Hawaiian ‘ike and ‘āina.
To learn more about Kealopiko and pick something up for yourself, visit thekealopikoshop.com. 312B Monsarrat Avenue, Honolulu, (808) 784-0033. The store is open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and 12 to 5 p.m. Sundays.
This story was originally published in the Fall 2023 issue of HAWAIʻI Magazine. Get a copy here.
