Discover the Significance of Ni‘ihau Shell Jewelry at Maui Hands

Imagine walking or cycling miles to a beach, then spending all day under the hot sun, in the sand, picking tiny little shells. This is the life for a small population of Native Hawaiian residents on the private island of Ni‘ihau where the fine folk art of making shell leis developed so many hundreds of years ago. With an ecosystem unspoiled by the modern conveniences most are used to, the people of Ni‘ihau contribute to preserving their unique dialect of the Hawaiian language and culture with their dedication to living the lifestyle of their ancestors. The surrounding coral beds remain untouched by outside influences, allowing the tiny shells—pūpū ‘o Ni‘ihau—to develop their prized shine and delicacy.

Niʻihau shells.
Photo: Courtesy of Maui Hands

Once the shells are collected, the lei maker and their family inspect each one and clean out the sand that has collected inside. The shells are sorted by color and pattern, then poked to create a hole for the thread to go through in a way that supports the type of weave the lei maker intends to use the shells in. In this process—and any member of the family may be involved in this—about 30% of the shells either break or the resulting hole is not perfect enough for a lei. Only when the lei maker has enough of each shell in their design can they start sewing. Although they follow the teachings of their aunties, parents or grandparents, in the end a lei maker’s styles are unique.

“I saw my first Ni‘ihau shell lei in 1994 and it was love at first sight,” says Panna Cappelli, owner of Maui Hands Art Galleries. “The brightly colored, tightly woven shells sewn into intricate designs. The ladies who walked in the door with them, smiling beautifully. That day, I purchased more than I could afford and continue to do so to support these incredibly talented native Hawaiian craftspeople.”

The beautiful Niʻihau shell jewelry at Maui Hands.
Photo: Courtesy of Maui Hands

Predicting that the younger generations of Ni‘ihau descendants wouldn’t be as interested in continuing the fine folk art and that the shells wouldn’t always be as plentiful, Cappelli has continued to buy and sell Ni‘ihau shell lei since then and has amassed one of the largest private collections in the state. When considering a lei purchase, she carefully takes into account luster, strength of color, and rarity of the shells, as well as the skill of the lei maker. The beauty of design is also considered—be it powerful, sweet, or elegant—as well as the tightness of the weave and gradation of the shells.

“Some designs include weaves that are so complicated, I never see them made again and wonder if they ever will be,” says Cappelli.

Ni‘ihau shell jewelry is one of the most Hawaiian art forms represented in Maui Hands.
Photo: Courtesy of Maui Hands

An art form like no other, lei makers create their own beautiful designs, yet follow traditional weave patterns to craft culturally rich, wearable pieces of art. See the beauty of this fine tradition for yourself at Maui Hands in Makawao, Pā‘ia, and Wailea on Maui.